Slaughter Craven Goods – clearing up some of the instructions

Slaughter Craven Goods – clearing up some of the instructions
Phil has pointed out there is no precise position for the motion plate mentioned anywhere. It should be 3'8and a quarter inches in front of the middle axle ie 14.75mm in 4mm scale.

Hope this part of the GA helps.


Mike has been asking some questions and so I thought others of you would also be doing this over the next few weeks so I am, in the greatest Waldron tradition, placing an addendum to the instructions here, as it happens. My responses in red.

Hi Ian:
Good day yesterday.

Ive just been trying to get my head round the copious instruction diagrams. Puts mine to shame!! They were only b&w, but I did put arrows in!!

On the ‘Loco Chassis Parts Location‘ page, the white piece above the letter ‘A’ in the green circle looks like being a motion plate(?) with 5 square holes each side ... presumably for cylinder slide bars?

Is that a residue from intended etched slide bars, maybe changed your mind?
I note you mention a drop in set of motion parts for the future. Presumably the etched version you produced for the C class a few years ago isn’t that?
Bravo for a super-detailed kit!
Mike
Hi Mike

The parts above the A are the rear of the cylinder block and the parts above the B are the motion plate. The white is just the rear of the etch, being blank, and the drawing of the etch sheet to the left of the diagram should show what is what. The parts above the A, once added together, by soldering or whatever other means, are then turned through 180 degrees so the detail parts are to the rear and then get put into the chassis at the rear of the cylinder casting position. Yes the rectangular slots are there to help people who realise this is for a representation of the slide bars and some parts of the etch edge are the correct size to cut up and put in those rectangles and meet the motion plate front part – the parts above the B – but as you rightly say, there is in development a drop in part for this which will likely be available some time this year or next.

I hope that clears it up.

Still at David’s in Kent so cannot use the actual artwork to check but I think what I have said above is correct.

Many thanks

Ian

Thanks Ian
That makes sense now.
Is there either a piece on one of the frets should one choose to close it up to form the block, or introduce a home-made item?

Hi Mike

There is a front and a rear to the cylinders but I didn’t think anyone would bother putting the underside of the casting in as I was using the hollow parts to solder the compensating beam for the front axle inside the cylinder space so it wouldn’t show.

Cheers

Ian

Sorry to add one more question....

Can’t work out how the etched loco spring shape related to the printed ones ..... 
Mike

The etched spring is the driving wheel spring inside the splasher, over the inside frame. See the photos

Oh ok.

I can just see a corner on the top left photo peeking out! Not really visible on the others.

I’ll check my own collection of photos.

I’ll leave you in peace!
M

Loco body parts location diagram 3 show where to put them if you can get the space.

Cheers

Ian

Looks like they were gone by renumbering.

Sorry mate ... another question!

The tender coping ... is it curved horizontally or a simple ‘straight out’ angle?

The pictures suggest curved.

Looking forward to getting building after my mate and I have rebuilt my crumbling garage!! 

New roof being fitted, to protect lathes, milling machine & tool grinders from the storm rainwater ingress & flooding (not river!) I’ve been fighting all winter, but found parts of the walls crumbling! It was only built in the early 60s.

Mike

Hi Ian
Sorry I’ve got some more points I’m unsure about re Slaughter goods:

1. Are the tender copings flat or curved when viewed from the front/rear?

2. Are the coupling rods pivoted on the crank pin or knuckle joint?

3. There are 2 holes in the loco-tender drawbar - which should be used for P4?

4. Where do the two little c45degree cranks attached between the water tank top and holy (4 hole!) inner tender panels fit?

5. I assume the 2 little T shapes on body sheet 2 are lamp irons?

6. The two 45degree ended 4 rivet strips o body sheet 2 by the 4 cab steps go where? Or are they spares?

7. The two etched brass cab spectacle plates - are they intended to be soldered together for strength?

8. Presumably the extra pressure gauge is in case it isn’t located as per the rhs one?

I hope you don’t think I’m being picky. You’ve done a grand job! Perhaps the hand rests are a bit too fine as the end eyes have virtually disappeared.
I remember doing something like that with the first shot at Dieppe. I decided then that if people wanted them superfine it was a case of them needing to file them down!

Mike

Hi Mike

No worries.

1. Picture on page 2 and 4 of the instructions look like slightly curved copings. GA plans were a bit indistinct so I have drawn straight corners but slightly larger than needed to allow for final fitting.
2. Either solid rods for no compensation/springing or pivot on the knuckle as per prototype. Or parts from the both if you want to pivot on the crankpin.
3. Depends on your curves, nearer for prototype, further for radius 2.
4. On the GA these seem to connect to the water cut off pivot wires. They fit below the footplate in line with the water hoses from the tender to the loco. If you are fitting these – not supplied – they could be used down there in the gloomy bit!
5. Between one side of the top of the motion plate and the extended cab side ? Yes.
6. On Loco body parts location 2 diagram, these are arrowed. They form the corner rivet strip at right angles to the long underfootplate rivet strip with the short ends at right angles and fit up against the front buffer beam or the rear drag beam as appropriate, after these parts are fitted.
7. Yes. It gets the rims on both front and rear. The pressure guage is tot he rear.
8. Extra is if you can use the resin cab. I have one out of 12 that seemed perfect, rest a bit ripply. I am expecting most people to use the etched cab.

Hope that is okay. I am around for the next 12 weeks if you need ought else!!

Cheers

Ian

Thanks Ian

The item at no6 - I see the arrows in the rhs diagram on Loco Body Parts Location 2 sheet - they’re arrived from the mainly red diagram of Body Sheet 1 - from the rear end of the cab step back on the outside frames over location on the middle diagram. I get that.

The ones I meant are on the lhs (more white) diagram of Body Sheet 2. The 4 individual steps are arrowed, but the two little rivet strips with 4 rivers and 45degree but off end aren’t. Nor are the two just above the stage beam and below the outside frame backing fold-down strips - one green arrow goes right across one, but from the outer axlebox fold-ups to the solid chassis axle cut out pieces in the middle.
Mike

Hi Mike

Got you now! They are not used either. They were going to be part of the cylinder cover/frames in front of the smokebox and I forgot to remove them. The other parts are to represent the firebox/footplate rivet strip and are shown as such on the next page in diagram Loco Body Parts Location 3 although they do look like they are pointing to the reversing link!

Cheers Ian

Thanks Ian that clears that up.

I’m taking the opportunity to annotate the instructions as the builder was rained off the garage roof today, so no truss and rafter building for me today. Garage is a wet mess! I hope it’s too cold for rust to set in! Tarpaulins were got on yesterday just after the rain started!! Bin. Bags are “protecting” the machine beds!



Btw, on the loco and tender drag beams, there’s a folding end ...? We’re they timber?

Or are the fold round ends for locating the two pieces into the frames?

M

Hi Mike

The half etched lines are for location purposes, not folding. These were flat steel sheets, not timber.

Cheers Ian

Btw, on the loco and tender drag beams, there’s a folding end ...? We’re they timber?

Or are the fold round ends for locating the two pieces into the frames?

M

Hi Mike

The half etched lines are for location purposes, not folding. These were flat steel sheets, not timber.

Cheers Ian

So you solder both layers together and the smaller one is the locator?

M

Yep!

Cheers Ian